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Information for Renters

44 Expert Q&A related to Renter


A. The correct way to protect electrical devices against surges is by making sure you use a properly designed surge protector that provides protection for the electrical conductors plugged into it. A computer with a network connection must have a surge protector designed to protect the electrical connection as well as the telephone circuit and network cable. Be sure to match the surge protector to the job you’re asking it to do.


A. To stay comfortable, there must be some moisture in the air; however, excess moisture can cause problems. Moisture originates both inside and outside the home. The problems it creates can be controlled by minimizing the amount of moisture produced inside the home, reducing the amount of moisture entering structural cavities like walls or attics—either from inside or outside of the home—and ventilating moisture-producing areas such a kitchens, baths and laundries. Reducing the amount of moisture produced in the home is the first defense against moisture problems. This entails locating the major sources of moisture and where possible, decreasing their intensity. An average family of four produces 18 to 20 pints of moisture a day performing routine household activities. Just breathing produces between 8 and 12 pints in 24 hours, cooking adds another 5, showering another half pint per shower, and watering plants adds about the same amount of moisture to the air as is poured on the plants.

Limiting non-essential moisture producing activities will reduce the amount of humidity in the home. If the home has humidifiers, they can be reduced in output or turned off, and the number of indoor plants can be reduced.

Minimizing the amount of moisture entering structural cavities means separating them from both inside and outside moisture sources. Vapor barriers should create a moisture tight seal around the home’s interior. Bare earth floors of cellars or crawl spaces should be covered with a sheet of .4 mil or thicker polyethylene. Overlap the sheets and secure them in place with a brick or sand. Basement floors and walls that get damp may need a waterproofing treatment. A dehumidifier may be used in these areas. Good attic and crawl space ventilation is essential to keep moisture from accumulating in these areas. Some well-intentioned home owners seal attic and crawl space vents thinking they are reducing heat loss through these openings. While some heat loss may be prevented, considerable damage can result from the trapped moisture. In well-insulated homes, there should not be much heat to be saved in these areas anyway.

Ventilate moisture producing areas when moisture producing activities are performed. Kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans should be run during cooking or showering, and exhaust vents, including those for clothes dryers, should be vented outdoors and not into attics or other unconditioned areas.


A. An early indication of high humidity levels in your home is condensation on windows. Because they are usually the coldest surface exposed to room air, they fog up first. By taking action to reduce condensation on windows, you should be able to avoid condensation problems from occurring inside the walls. Occasional condensation or frost on windows is normal. Frequent occurrences, or periods of prolonged duration, are warnings that inside humidity conditions may be causing condensation inside wall cavities.

A musty odor or buildup of mold in the house is another sign of high humidity levels.

Inexpensive color-change relative humidity indicators can also reveal high moisture levels. These should be installed near the thermostat.

On a positive note, a certain amount of humidity in the home can help prevent dry throats and make people generally feel more comfortable because less moisture evaporates from the body thereby reducing the cooling effect. Also, higher humidity levels results in less static electricity and improved furniture maintenance as wood moisture is maintained reducing cracking and shrinkage.


A. Each CFL (compact fluorescent light) bulb, on average, contains 4 mg of mercury. If a CFL should break in your home, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) provides cleanup guidelines that can be performed by the general public.


Review the Cleanup Guidelines.


A. Uniformity is a measure of how evenly or “smoothly“ the lighting level is spread out over an area. It is expressed as a uniformity ratio of average foot-candles divided by the minimum allowable foot-candles. The lower this ratio, the better.


A. You can be sure you’re purchasing the right-size ceiling fan by measuring your room area (length times width) and looking for a fan with the appropriate fan diameter:

Room Area (sq. ft.) = Minimum Fan Diameter (inches)
100 sq. feet = 36-inch fan
150 sq. feet = 42–inch fan
225 sq. feet = 48-inch fan
475 sq. feet = 52-inch fan
400+ sq. feet = Two Fans

Some ceiling fans offer reversible operation; they can blow down in summer when the breeze will create a cooling effect, and up in winter to circulate warm air that has risen to the ceiling. This feature is particularly advantageous in rooms with high ceilings that trap warm air during the heating season.


A. Perform a tour of your home to determine where it may need insulation. A good rule of thumb is that all heated or cooled areas should be separated from unconditioned areas with insulation. Regardless of your home’s layout, you can use this rule to determine where insulation should be installed. Each area will have its own priority in terms of insulation ease and cost-effectiveness and should be evaluated on the basis of both.

To know if your home currently has enough insulation, contact your local contractor to find out the recommended insulation levels for various parts of a home in your area. They will be able to tell you if your home meets the recommended R-Values for ceilings, walls and floors.

In order of cost-effectiveness for an existing home, it generally pays to insulate first your attic or roof, second your foundation or floor, third your windows, and last, your walls. If you are unsure of where to begin, you may want to take advantage of Georgia Power’s free in-home energy audit or consider having a BPI Assessment performed on your home by one of Georgia Power’s program participating contractors.


A. Your team at Georgia Power can run rate analyses that compare your usage against available rates and help you decide the rate that’s best for your home. Contact us for more details.

Q. How do you insulate windows?

Posted on August 2012

A. Single pane glass windows are virtually thermal holes in your walls. Having R-Values of roughly 1, they allow 19 times more heat to escape than an R-13 wall surrounding them. If you have lots of windows, insulating them could be one of your best energy improvements. However, keep in perspective how much you can improve them and still see through them. Adding another layer of glass raises their R-Value to just over 2, meaning now they are only losing 9 times as much heat as the insulated wall. Triple glazing can bring a window’s R-Value up to 3, but because of their expense they are only cost justified in severe climates. Storm windows can also be added to existing windows. They add a second layer of glass, halve the energy loss through the windows and often reduce infiltration through cracks in the old window casings. Of course, it would be better to have double-pane windows in the first place. Using double-pane windows to begin with brings three additional comfort advantages which some find more valuable than the energy savings. The first is the reduced noise provided by insulated windows. The second is less infiltration of dust and pollen. And the third is that insulated windows are warmer to the touch, which has a significant effect on body comfort. Because our bodies radiate heat toward cold surfaces even when they are several feet away, a cold window makes one feel colder.


A. To properly protect your sensitive electronic equipment you must construct a barrier around it much like you would put a fence around your home. Since you usually can’t prevent the things like lightning that damage your home electronics, you must keep these conditions from getting to your important equipment. Every piece of electrical equipment in your home needs a barrier. Just as it would be silly to dead bolt your front door, then leave the windows wide open, the same is true of your electrical equipment. Every avenue to the outside world must be protected—power, phone, cable, data and control lines must all be protected or your equipment will be vulnerable to damage.
Begin power protection at the main power entrance, the point where your power, cable and phone lines enter the house. By installing a high-energy surge protection device at this location, you can knock down the first wave of high voltage spikes entering your home. Most contractors call these lightning arrestors. But, don’t confuse these devices with a lightning rod. Lightning rods are installed to protect the house from physical damage in case of a direct hit. They won’t protect electrical equipment inside the home. The lightning arrestor is a device that helps divert damaging surges away from your electrical system and out through your ground rod. The cable TV line will probably enter your home near the main power entrance as well. It’s best to have all of your utilities enter your home at one point because it allows you to tie all of their ground rods together to form a single grounding system. This is required by some codes but it’s often overlooked by cable installers. Unless all of your equipment ties into a single ground, protection against surges won’t be as effective.
Moving inside your home, the television, DVD, DVR, CD player and stereo system represent a considerable investment, and they can be easily damaged by spikes. Each should be plugged into a plug-in surge protector. Use a protector that has multiple outlets allowing one device to protect your entire entertainment center. If you have cable service, the lead into the house should be surge-protected as well. Everything should be protected. If you protect your stereo but leave the CD player unprotected, the connection between the two devices provides a path for spikes. Some appliances containing electronic controls (i.e. microwave ovens) may also require surge protection. Make sure you use a surge protector designed for “heavy duty use”. There are surge protectors designed especially for microwaves.
Telephones and answering machines are some of the most commonly damaged devices in the home. A plug-in surge suppressor should be used to protect the power and phone line inputs. A common mistake is protecting only the power line. This does not provide adequate protection. Using a device that contains both protection elements in a single package is best and ensures system compatibility. These devices will have inputs for the phone line and the electric plug. If either line goes directly to the equipment, the equipment is not completely protected.
To prevent the flashing “12:00″ problem, look for clocks and DVD players with built-in battery back-up. Battery back-ups are not designed to keep the unit operating during a power outage, but it will preserve the memory and settings so they will still be there when the power comes back on.


44 Expert Q&A related to Renter